so i just got back from one of the craziest weekends of my life. On tuesday i found out that a test i was supposed to have on thursday got postponed so i decided to go to namibia with my roommate and neighbors. sidenote: also on tuesday i found out that the essay i posted for you guys earlier in the semester was published in the first issue of a travel magazine at GW. ok, so i had the evening to research and write a 5 page paper and go to dance class. i finished by midnight (go me!) and then we left at 6:30 am for namibia. For those of you who haven't looked a map of southern africa recently (or read a tabloid), namibia is a mostly empty country just north of south africa on the western side. There are hardly any cities and towns and hardly any people either. A large part of it is desert. Brad and Angelina are currently there promoting the country and waiting to have their baby. on the trip was me, lindsey and adee all from GW, katie from fordham and laura my roommate from gtown. so we had a nice girly road trip through the desert in our nissan almera, nicknamed the "blueberry tartlet."
DISCLAIMER: the namibian people are exceptionally friendly and we were treated very well. one of the following stories may seem shocking and scary, but mostly it was a crazy thing that we now have as a wonderful travel story. People were so nice in fact that everytime you drove by someone (not often) they would wave excitedly at you! so please, do not be a afraid for me. do not think that i am crazier than anyone you have ever met. this is normal behavior. road trips are supposed to be wild. the end.
We started off the trip listening to all our cd's (most of which were severely scratched) and eating an absurd amount of chips balanced out with apples. Every time we saw a petrol station we bought gas and coke light. even though we were camping and roughing it, coke light cannot be drank warm, so we bought cold ones whenever possible. One great thing about the trip was that the namibian dollar is 1:1 with the south african rand so the money is interchangable. as soon as we got into namibia we were on the open road. people drive 180 kilometers/hour on open stretches. that's about 110 mph. yikes. so we drove on wednesday for 15 hours until we reached Windhoek, the capital. Everything has german names in Namibia because it was the last african country to gain independence, from germany in 1989. their first president is still in office. all the streets are named after him. Sam Njoma Strasse in every town. On the way to Windhoek we only passed about 3 towns, strategically placed so that you are forced to buy petrol in every one. In Botswana we were constantly passing little villages but there is nothing in namibia. So eventually we got to windhoek and camped at this hostel in the middle of the city. We made some pasta (probably our best dinner of the whole trip) and then played some cards before going to bed. We also made sure to have a Windhoek lager while in Windhoek. it's actually not very good.
On thursday we woke up and had a complimentary breakfast of thin pancakes covered in sugar. Then we went to the Namibia Craft Center to look at all the beautiful handmade crafts that weren't part of the giant African craft market. however we couldn't afford any of them. So we explored the city a little until we found crafts on the street so we could bargain. I kinda love bargaining. I always pick the nicest ladies to buy from. Some people will really harass and never give you a good deal, but if you buy more than one thing from one person that's when you get the best deals. So i got a few presents there. There were some beautifully carved mancala boards, but they were expensive! so i got a wooden hippo instead. you know, it's my mascot. After that we got back on the road and made some pb & j in the car on our way to Swakopmund, home of the dune adventure sports. In Swakopmund we chose to stay at a campground that was recommended to us by our friends who visited namibia during easter break. It was right on the beach and next to a bar - perfect! however there was only one other guest staying there, which was a little sketchy but we thought, what the heck. so we set up our tent and went to the beach for sundowners. After hanging out and taking phenomenal pictures of the sun setting over the water and the desert we walked back to our campsite to make some tuna surprise (adee's secret recipe of pasta, tuna, cheese and peas). Well we couldn't get our fire started so steven, the campground manager came over to help us. Since it was nice of him to help us out we gave him some brandy and let him eat dinner with us. After hanging out and eating dinner, where we learned interesting things (such as steven sold his cornea in the black market) we went to the bar next door because at midnight it was going to be lindsey's 21st. and here begins the craziest 15 hours of my life...
at the bar these crazy boers decided to start insulting us and the united states and telling us that we should have died in 9/11. They were being violent, swearing at us and being absurdly inappropriate. Well, we didn't take it lightly. needless to say a full-on barfight nearly broke out but he was a beefy guy and we were all girls and no one really wants to get in a barfight. Those kids got kicked out and then we were told it was last call, although it wasn't that late. Steven had started to get kinda strange and was mooching drinks off us and being generally strange. so after leaving to bar to blow off steam by screaming at the ocean in a very garden state-esque manner we went back to our campsite to surprise lindsey with a cake. Well we didn't want steven to hang out with us anymore. but he refused to leave. he started to get increasingly creepy. we had to put the cake under the car and then convince him that we were going to sleep in order to get him to leave. well he wasn't taking it that easy. We were actually in the tent laying down pretending to snore and finally he left. However, 5 minutes later he came back with his ledger and slammed it against the tent. he had said when we arrived that only one of us needed to sign the book and then we would all pay in the morning. So he started screaming that we needed to pay. We couldn't reason with him because he actually was going insane so we went to the tent of the only other person in the campground. Well Daniel, a Zimbabwean with one eye emerged, and it turns out that he is friends with the owner of the campground. Turns out Steven has only been working there two weeks. lovely. So Daniel takes a couple of us to a phone and offers to use his minutes to call the owner, but he's out of minutes and the phones are all broken. We go back to the campsite where a couple of us are still attempting to argue with steven, even though he has quit speaking english and will only use Afrikaans. well the bartender and bar security came over and were also trying to help us, to no avail. So lindsey and katie took the car, with the bartender, to the namibian police station to use a phone and call the owner. The police wouldn't let them use the phone. While they were gone we decided that even if they did find the owner and Steven got in trouble it wouldn't be smart for us to stay at the campground. We started unpacking the tent. Steven tried to steal our tent poles, laura fought back for them, but he did steal my box of wine. not cool. So as soon as Lindsey and Katie get back from the police having made no progress we packed the car and tried to leave, refusing to pay since we were being harassed and not allowed to sleep. on our way out the Namibian police show up. We were trying to reason with the constable, but he was insanely listening to Steven. Finally we wrote down our phone number and peeled out. We then had to find a place to stay. The hostel was too expensive and it was gross, one hotel wouldn't give us a room because it was 2 am and laura had no shoes on, and finally we found the Swakopmund Hotel/Casino. So nice, 4 star resort. Eisenhausen, the guy who checked us in, let all 5 of us stay in one room for the single price, which we put on laura's credit card. We then crashed in the room and all our adrenaline and wine caught up with us and we decided to go skinny dipping in the fountain at 3 am. After that we ate cake and passed out. in the morning we woke up and Eisenhausen had left laura an urgent message saying he wanted to be very good friends with her (creepy). we went to our complimentary breakfast, which was an all you can eat feast featuring custom omelettes, salmon, oysters, pastries, fruit and we asked for mimosas for lindsey's birthday. It was amazing. and such a contrast from our previous night. Then we found out that breakfast was only complimentary for 2 of us. oh well, it was worth it. finally our terror was over. At checkout the bitchy lady at reception was trying to charge us a crazy rate so they had to get eisenhausen on the phone and then the manager came out to
after breakfast laura, lindsey and katie went 4 x 4ing on the dunes and adee and I decided to just walk through the dunes for free and then come back and lounge by the pool. i mean, i wanted to take advantage of the 4 star hotel since we would be camping the rest of the nights. After that relaxing time we got back in our car. We stopped at a gas station, got some pies (mmm) and coke light. The gas station attendents are always so excited when you pull into the station and they were so nice. They told us that brad and angelina were headed into Windhoek that day and that we'd just missed them. oh well. i think they were just as excited to see us as they were about brad and angelina. So we drove for about a half hour and then the paved road stopped. We had heard bad things about namibian roads, how they weren't paved, how peoples cars would die and they'd be stuck on the side of the road and get attacked by lions. so once the pavement stopped we realized we were in for a treat. Well this was possibly the most beautiful drive of my entire life. We were driving through rolling desert hills on a gravel road at sunset and it was so stunning. not a single picture could do it justice. it was also a full moon. unbelievable. well we also saw some game. we saw kudu, wild ostrich, jackals, HUGE bugs that looked like black stones in the road and were actually insects. also once it got dark i'm pretty sure i saw lions, but they could have been bushes. So eventually we got to Sesriem, a tiny gated in campsite that pretends it's a town and we encountered our third one-eyed man. and this one had cornrows. The cornea black market is really big in namibia and zimbabwe apparently. well once we got into sesriem we set up our tent, ate tuna sandwiches and promptly passed out around 10.
that was good though since we had to wake up at 4:30 to go watch the sunrise on dune 45. We drove down a road (semi-paved!) for 30 minutes until we got to dune 45. a large, yet climbable dune in a mossy valley that runs through mountains made of sand. it's wild. We climbed it, but it was so difficult and we were sweating so bad by the time we made it up the first part that we decided that was good enough and we didn't need to go all the way. the crazy germans climbing with us went all the way. we lived vicariously through them. the sunrise was unbelievable. on one side the full moon was setting and on the other side the sun was rising and was creating pink rays over the valley. The colors on the red sand of the dunes were so incredible. We took about a gazillion pictures (to be posted tomorrow at some time so look out for that) and then climbed back down. Then we stopped back in sesriem to eat breakfast. well we didn't have a clean pot, or forks or any silverware for that matter, or any way to heat anything up. so i ate the most disgusting sandwich of my life. bad dry bread with warm cheese, tuna and cold baked beans. katie was using pringles as a spoon to scoop out baked beans. i could not believe us. then we got back on the road to go fish river canyon, the 2nd biggest canyon in africa. Also, the road was paved for a decent part of the day, yay! although at one point we were going 100 mph and a bird hit our windshield. it's skull cracked and there was brain matter on our window. yikes. We got to the "town" of Ai-Ais (campground and flats, restaurant, convenience shop) and decided that instead of trying to formulate a meal we would go to the restaurant. all the food was pretty sick, but we got champagne and tried to avoid the awkward stares of the giant tour group of elderly adventurers. then after dinner we hung out in our tent to celebrate our last night and then we went out in search of the "hot springs" that we had heard about inside Ai-Ais. We found a little tiny pool and the water was basically boiling, so we kept walking around in the dark and eventually we found this huge, hot pool. Since it was dark and no one was around we decided to skinny dip again, because well, why not. it was so nice and warm and really relaxing. After that we went back to our tent and slept amazingly well.
In the morning we woke up and tried to heat up bean cans on the communal stove. it didn't work well and was really nasty. Then we showered and got everything all packed for our last day. We then went for a "hike" in the canyon for about 20 minutes total. Then we drove about an hour to the fish river canyon lookout. Apparently there are a lot of really great, difficult hikes around the canyon, but we could only handle 20 minutes. The lookout was incredible, even though in this season the river is barely more than a trickle. From there we began our long drive back. We nearly ran out of gas before reaching the border which was kinda scary but luckily we made it. We had our last lunch of tuna on disgusting bread with chips on top of it. i don't wanna see tuna or baked beans for awhile. Then we crossed the border and drove home. We saw some scary car accidents on the way home, way worse than anything we saw in namibia. At one point we saw a really bad accident, then a couple kilometers later we saw that the ambulance carrying passengers from the first accident had crashed. it was really sad. well eventually we made it home at around 11:30. Now today i had a test at 11 am, and two article summaries and a lab due. I had been reading articles in the car for most of the trip. I wrote one summary last night, one this morning, made it to all my classes, printed the summaries on campus and still did pretty well on the test! go me!
all in all the trip to namibia was phenomenal and we did it for pretty cheap too! this week promises to be a good one, i'm really winding down on my classes and there are some exciting things planned. we're mostly just trying to cram everything in before we leave. which is for me in 3.5 weeks. yikes.